Routine Maintenance Outboard
After the engine running properly, you must have a maintenance contract, which begins with systematic checks every time you establish your boat. These controls will not last long, but could the difference between life and death for your engine spell.
Daily inspection and maintenance Outboard
Daily checks should have a brief look at some important points. First, make sure the oil tank (if you have one) is crowned. If you have aFour-stroke engine make sure that the crankcase oil level and fill as needed for review. Check to determine the user's manual to see if the oil level should be screwed, or left without a trace, if you check the oil level. Otherwise it could cause a false reading, and over-or. Underfilling the crankcase, which can lead to problems.
Check if you have enough fuel for the journey, and that the fuel tank vent is open.
With the engine obliquely upwards, for more controlOil fields in the vicinity of the prop ... It could mean that the estate has deteriorated in the lower gear housing. (Note:. Some oil film formation is normal in many cases, look for changes in the level of accumulation if it seems to be increasing, check the oil level in the lower group as described in the manual) If the seal has failed Take the motor with a motor repair shop immediately to prevent damage to expensive gear.
Check that line wrapped around the propeller area. If you ignorecan determine the line wraps around the propeller shaft and cause the failure of the body above the seal gear.
If the engine is not bolted through the back of the boat, make sure the terminals are tight and secure. Many engines have landed on the bottom of the sea by the abandonment of this simple test.
Sniffing around for any sign of a fuel leak, and if you find one, fix the problem.
Once the engine is running, be sure to check the "traitor" or spray "tracer", or fumes,to be sure that the water pump is operating.
If all these elements are in order, you're ready to go. There is only one thing:
If you drag the boat on a trailer and running in salt water, rinse with fresh water every day cooling.
Monthly monitoring and maintenance of the outboard
Checked on a monthly basis, in addition to daily routine, it's a good idea to remove the engine cover and look for corrosion buildup in the vicinity of the cylinder heads and thermostat, which could indicateseal leaks. Also look for corrosion protection to the wire connections ... Clean and tighten as needed and then use a unique anti-corrosion spray available at your local dealer on all exposed electrical connectors and bare metal to your outboard.
Make sure gas and transmission shift controls without problems. Lubricate if necessary. Be aware that you are never the corridors, if the engine is running, so make sure the boat is safe in a hurryDock before check-shift control for smooth operation.
Then, run the engine with the hood and check that none of the bolt-on components (fuel pump, voltage regulator, coil, etc.) have come loose from their mountings. Ensure that all wires and cables cut out and mounted securely by seat belts. So, if the engine is equipped with an engine mounted fuel filter to see if water has collected in it. It will be easy to see how the water will separate fromfuel, falling down the screen, and be relatively light in color compared to petrol / oil mixture over it. If you can see the water, remove the filter housing and drain the water. Clean install the screen element to ensure, and the O-rings before putting on the rear cover of this card and check for leaks after replacing the filter. Just pump the fuel Kraftstoffbalg until the filter / screen is filled with fuel, and look for fuel leaks.
Controlfor corrosion to the thermostat at the top of the cylinder head or engine block
Check if the corrosion on electrical connections
Next, you should check the status of all victims of zinc anodes on your engine. Check if the zincs on the bottom bracket with larger engines. There may be a card behind the propeller structure of zinc or zinc are bolted to a small anti-ventilation plate. Replace all zincs that more than half will be removed. In some areas can be dissolvedfairly quickly, and if the zinc is completely gone, it's the only thing to solve the crankcase.
Finally, check the battery in the engine, and fill the cells, if necessary.
Seasonal checks and maintenance of outboard motors
First we define the "season", a word. The way we use it here, actually means once every three months, or every full season of navigation, whichever comes first. In other words, if you start the whole year or for longer than three months in any case, do these checksand serviced at least once every three months, or about 50-75 hours each operation.
But if you're using in a region where the boat is limited to less than 75 days or three months ago, this "season" will be revised every year.
Three months (or seasonal) service checks
Seasonal check-ups are much more complete and operations may require the expertise of your local dealer, but will certainly be able to list all workshere except in rare cases.
Lubrication points ... All points of lubrication of the engine should be filled with fresh grease, as recommended by the manufacturer to the motor position. Keep the pump in grease until all the old grease and water is pressed out. It is a messy job, so to clean the old stuff with a cloth, as it is discharged to the lubrication point.
Propeller inspection ... First, some of your ignition system with ignition wires to the pins.Then remove the screw shaft for each fishing line wrapped to be inspected. If you can, cut them all out.
Check the propeller for nicks, burrs and unwanted bends in the propeller blades. If the scores are a minor, you can clean with a file.
Check the propeller of a deterioration of vulcanized rubber and its attachment to the hub splines. Any damage found could be trouble has been provided by the next season. If this hub is damaged, you must haverehubbed a new prop or support. If in doubt, let the dealer make the final call. You do not want to replace it, before you do anything.
If everything looks good here, clean the shaft on the old grease removed, and a thin layer of waterproof grease on the shaft passed. Do not reinstall the propeller, just like you want to run the engine cooling system flush, and you should never run the engine with the propeller from the water, because theobvious danger from the blades hum.
If you install the new propeller, however, remember to replace the cotter pin for the locking nut when the engine is equipped with one. If the engine uses a prop Nylock self locking nut must be replaced because of this barrier only once.
Transfer Case oil change ... The next step in the process of seasonal service is changing the gearbox oil. On most outboard motors, gear box, screw caps on the two clear of the gearbox.Some engines, however, the change is to drain and fill bolts on the hub in front of the propeller, in which case it can only be achieved with the propeller.
To drain the liquid from the device from the skeg clean the bottom of the motor and attach a piece of tape on the fin.
Take a clean container that is large enough to hold all the oil in the gearbox and put it under the tape. Remove the bottom drain plug. Not much will come outUp to slowly unscrew the top control. The oil is then kept on the side of the gearbox, on the side of the fin and the flow directly into the drip tray on the edge of the strip.
Check the oil for excessive metal shavings or discoloration. When the oil is milky, or if you have a large amount of water from the exhaust before the oil is known, then the water somehow migrated into the gearbox, that in a bad seal.
Clean the magnetic pickups that aredrain plug on a lot less and get ready to charge the lower unit with the correct gear oil.
A word of warning here: Get out of anyone who speaks to only use gear oil supplied from the auto parts store. Although this oil has the same smell of rotten eggs as unique as the liquid may be that you just removed from your outboard motor, can not be the same material. Typically, external devices, special oils, water dispersant additive found in them, which is not in the carNotes. Also note that not all outboard gear oil to use in their gear box. Some use four-stroke engine oil and other automotive uses a liquid much like automatic transmission fluid. Be sure to check the specifications of the engine. It 'best to go with your dealer for a container and fill with oil to buy a special pump.
These pumps are very cheap and fits not only the oil tank, but screw it directly into the threaded hole of the central connector lowEngine and minimizes confusion. This is an important point, because you will need to fill the gear box from the bottom up. Once setup you simply work the pump until you get to see the oil seeping from the upper hole plug control. Then install the plug housing and welcoming to the screw.
Subsequently, the discharge / fill plug ready to install, clean the magnetic pickup, and that will seal or O-ring seal is either in place of the screw or gearbox. Screw the pump and the instrumentquickly to drain / fill plug. Pull it completely. Wipe excess oil from the gears and check for leaks. Their oil change is done.
Cooling system ... The next step in the seasonal service is to wash your cooling system with fresh water. One precaution is to ensure that the adapter wire stays in place while you are flushing the engine. If the adapter slides over the lower unit to a point below the water intake, the engine could burn waterPump or the motor itself, if it is left unattended even for a short period.
As part of this service, cooling system, is also a good idea to remove and clean the engine, the thermostat, if it has one. The internal cavity in which adjusts the thermostat and bypass valve, a trap for sand, salt and debris generally, the past system of pick-up filter. They have expanded with the thermostat, clean any type of manure are there, and with the engine running fresh water running from the cleaning adapterthrough the engine at this time. At this point, so that the flow of water inside is white with no restrictions because of water loss at this time. Just run the engine long enough to understand that a good flow of water is poured solid.
After the thermostat has been cleaned, reinstall with new gaskets, and run the engine again to make sure that the thermostat cover does not leak. If the engine seemed to be running too hot lately, but the test showed the wateris always in sufficient quantity at this point, the operation of the thermostat could be the problem.
The replacement of the rotor. In addition to cleaning the cooling system and thermostat control, it is also possible for the replacement of water pump impeller, such as routine maintenance. Actually, the manufacturer's recommendations vary on this point, some say that you replace the impeller every year, and the other just replace if necessary. If you regularly venture into the open sea far awaythat the failure of the water pump could be a serious problem to replace the impeller every year.
On the other hand, if your engine only occasionally throughout the season, or a soft non-risky trips from ship to shore, I advise you to replace the impeller every two years.
Cylinder compression ... Now that you run the engine for a while 'to wash your cooling system, and heated up, it's a good idea to perform the annual test pressure. Remember, compressioncan control one of your basic needs and the compression of the engine often identify impending problems before they become large.
For example, elastic bands, are just starting to bubble gum to a low pressure before failing completely. Usually you can solve this problem by going to heal a liquid decarburization approved manufacturer as MAC or Mercury "Engine Tuner" from the engine. If you do not take this problem in time, the only solution is to dismantle the engine. It 'easy to useThis engine tuner's instructions are right there on the label.
What is often not so easy to understand what is normal for the engine compression. Often the specifications are not in the engine manual or in the service manual workshop. So it's a good idea to check the compression when the engine is fairly new and in good working condition. Note the numbers of compression for each cylinder in the manual for future reference.
As a matter of interest, the actualThe pressure is not so important, is the deviation from the norm that you should do with the thoughts. In the case of a multi-cylinder to worry if someone else to the cylinder varies from 15 pounds per square inch (psi) or more. If you are a single-cylinder engine, a drop of 15 psi from the norm stated that if there is new concern. The procedure to perform a pressure test is actually pretty simple, but must be followed exactly for your safety andAccuracy of the measurements. So be careful, do not skip all these steps:
1 First, turn off the ignition system to go from the band connecting the ignition module. If the engine is removed with an emergency stop switch, simply clip the cord to the engine off. If none of these solutions will work on your engine, take a jumper and connect one end of a good engine ground, and start the other end to the metal spark plug. You must use a jumperFor each plug wire. Remember that it is sufficient to remove all power is a dangerous move. After removing all your candles and start the engine turns over, an explosive fuel / oil mix is spraying from the holes of the centering. A spark plug wire, and this mixture could ignite outside the combustion chamber, if it is not grounded to the engine. This could also free-wheeling kind of damage the spark ignition coils and modules.
2 Remove all the spark plugs, and be sure never to order inSo can be obtained from the cylinders are returned. Look carefully at the end of the connector business, looking for differences in color and signs of rust or water near the top.
3 The next argument of the compression gauge into the hole No. 1 spark plug and "zero" of teaching.
4 Turn on the gas as much as possible to ensure that the cylinder receives an unlimited amount of air. (Some engines allow only a very small opening, when the shift lever in neutral on guardTurn over.)
5 Run the engine more than an equal number of times for each cylinder test, and be sure to reset the counter for each cylinder. If you
electric start, count the seconds: "one thousand, two thousand, one thousand and 3004" committed and so on, with the key or start button. This gives you time to crank for a decent bed. If you have a pull starter, disconnect the power cord for each cylinder four-time 56, is being tested.
Record 6His readings of each cylinder for future reference. Use the 15 psi above criteria, to determine if further action is needed.
If compression readings are lower than normal for each cylinder, try a test of "wet" compression, which will temporarily seal the rings to determine and, if they read the cause of the low.
To perform this test, you get a can of your favorite oil misting nozzles and insert the tube in red print button. Now, with attention to the other endto distribute the spark plug hole in the hose and spray into the cylinder with a circular motion around spraying oil on the entire circumference of the piston. Spray approximately 4 seconds.
Remove the nozzle and install the compression tester. Turn the engine over exactly the same number of times you have to test and compare your previous reading likes. If the compression increases significantly, then start the ring to stick.
If the problem soon enough, began decarburizationwith an "Engine Tuner" fluid, as described above, healing is possible. If compression was very dry down and not show any change during the wet test, it is too late. His rings and / or pistons are up to the point where the disassembly of the main engine must be worn. So be brave and ask your dealer.
If two adjacent cylinders to provide a multi-cylinder has a value as low, or if there is evidence of rust or water on the spark plugs from the cylinders, then the problem is a defectiveCylinder head gasket. This is usually a major problem left to a professional to manage, but if you have enough experience in engine, you might want to meet.
By the way, the readings by a compression engine that has been stored for a long term care. While it is sitting idle, the piston rings "relax" and easily removed, often give a first reading to a minimum and misleading. Always turn the engine to operating temperature to ensure that the reading you get isexactly.
A final tip, if the candles are the engine for the entire season, now is the time to replace them.
Fuel System ... The next phase of the annual check carefully control the entire boot for signs of fuel leaks, loose terminals or broken pipes and worn squeeze bulbs. Any rust spots on the fuel tank should be sanded and repaired. Also check the fan for the tank. You should breathe freely. Any limitation canTo stop the engine.
An easy way to a loss of fuel from the primer bulb is to control the motor, press the bulb until it becomes solid, and keep the pressure on them to make sure that remains fixed while the engine is not running. If you do not stay fixed, there is a leak in the system between the piston and the motor or the motor in the carburetor or fuel pump.
You may need to remove some access panels on the boat to do a visual inspection of the fuel system, but notTo neglect this important task.
Automatic Oiler ... The next task is to examine the automatic mixing of oil and the engine is so equipped. Clean and check all cables and connections and replace any broken lines, loose connections and tighten if necessary. It 'a good idea to check with your provider for specific recommendations for the engine. On some engines, oil-feed pump is to composite membranes as part of an annual service will be replaced.
Steering ... The ship guidance systemmust be thoroughly inspected at least once a year, but do not hesitate to do it any time to see what the feeling unusual looseness or tightness in the steering wheel. Check the control cables for signs of separation, cracks in the outer packaging, or rust deposits near the end of the cable.
Battery ... Next, check and clean all battery cables and battery tops. Spread a thin layer of petroleum jelly or similar grease to light the most closely connected. If you intend to put the boatin storage, remove the battery and trickle charge every month.
Two final adjustments. Finally, you should ask your local dealer ignition timing, and adjust the carburetor (s). These methods are not part-time mechanic should look for on an outboard motor. There are too many expensive tools needed.
